A limited but increasing number of iPhone X owners claim to be experiencing so-called 'crackling' or 'buzzing' sounds emanating from the device's front-facing earpiece speaker at high or max volumes. Over two dozen users have said they are affected in a about the matter, while similar reports have surfaced on and since the iPhone X launched just over a week ago. On affected devices, the crackling sounds occur with any kind of audio playback, including phone calls, music, videos with sound, alarms, and ringtones. The issue doesn't appear to be limited to any specific iPhone X configuration or iOS version. 'Love the phone but I was wondering if anyone has had any issues with the speakers slightly sounding a little crackling whenever max volume,' said one MacRumors forum member with the alias ShadowYYZ.

'Noticeable on certain songs and even my ring tone which was bought from the iTunes Store.' For those unaware, the iPhone X's earpiece doubles as a speaker that combines with the traditional speaker at the bottom of the device to deliver stereo sound. Both the iPhone 7 and iPhone 8 series also have stereo speakers. MacRumors hasn't been able to reproduce the issues described. Apple didn't immediately respond to our request for comment on the matter.

While the sounds could be the result of distortion, especially since they occur at higher volumes only, several users are convinced that there could be a bigger software or hardware issue affecting the earpiece. 'I listen to a lot of music on the speakers of the iPhone X and I noticed the slight crackle right away,' replied another MacRumors forum member who goes by the username Benz63amg. 'Since so many of us seem to experience this crackle then my assumption is that it's software related rather than hardware.' A few months ago, several iPhone 8 and iPhone 8 Plus owners experienced a with the earpiece during phone calls. Saiyaan Kailash Kher Mp3 Songs Free Download. Since the crackling sounds on iPhone X don't appear to be limited to phone calls, it's unclear if the issues are related. Apple has been replacing affected iPhone X units free of charge, according to customers who contacted the company.

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Apple also appears to be collecting diagnostic information so that its engineers can investigate the matter, as it routinely does with any potential software or hardware issues. Like the, this is an isolated issue affecting a very low percentage of the millions of devices being manufactured. The majority of iPhone X owners do not appear to be affected. If you experience this problem, we recommend booking a Genius Bar appointment with the or contacting Apple via, or to have your iPhone X replaced.

Apple is known for providing good customer service, and it is often genuinely helpful in these situations. If you experience this problem, we recommend booking a Genius Bar appointment with the Apple Support app ('or contacting Apple via phone, email, online chat ('or Twitter ('to have your iPhone X replaced. Apple is known for providing good customer service, and it is often genuinely helpful in these situations. To be fair, for a $1000+ the least you'd expect from Apple is a replacement or an acknowledgement of the issue with a promise of a fix. But let’s stick it on the front page because it will be a good way to get clicks on a Sunday.:rolleyes: I don't think there's anything wrong with highlighting the issue, even if it is isolated.

Apple had to outright fix a similar issue with the iPhone 8 and iPhone 8 Plus in iOS 11.0.2 There were several users commenting about why MacRumors hasn't covered this story yet, so clearly we can't please everyone. Within Temptation Feat Tarja Paradise Mp3 Free Download. Good point, headphones are more common but the fact that we are on page 7 or 8 of this thread and we can't even get MacRumors to report on it is crazy.

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Factory-authorized dealer The manufacturer’s warranty always applies. Free Shipping • 60-Day Returns • Lifetime Tech Support • • Home Audio & Smart Home • • Home Audio & Smart Home • • • Receivers & Amplifiers • • • • • • • Audio Components • • • • • • • • Wireless Speakers & Audio • • • • • • • Home Speakers • • • • • • • • • • • • • Smart Home • • • Networking • • • TV Sound Solutions • • • Computer Audio • • • Furniture • • • • • • Accessories • • • • • • Home Theater • • • High-Resolution Audio • • • Design & Installation Services • • • • • • Specials • • • Outlet • • • Articles & Videos •. Free Shipping • 60-Day Returns • Lifetime Tech Support • Home Audio & Smart Home • • Home Audio & Smart Home • • • Receivers & Amplifiers • • • • • • • Audio Components • • • • • • • • Wireless Speakers & Audio • • • • • • • Home Speakers • • • • • • • • • • • • • Smart Home • • • Networking • • • TV Sound Solutions • • • Computer Audio • • • Furniture • • • • • • Accessories • • • • • • Home Theater • • • High-Resolution Audio • • • Design & Installation Services • • • • • • Specials • • • Outlet • • • Articles & Videos •. In the 1950's, I'd take the family television's vacuum tubes down to Willow Grove Radio and TV Repair, check them with the giant tester machine, buy new replacement tubes, and reassemble the repaired television, so my mom and dad could enjoy their precious, respectively, Dean Martin and Red Skelton shows. In the 1960's, I studied radio and electronics at the Franklin Institute in Philadelphia. After college, in the early 70's, I joined a rock 'n roll band as the soundman, learning how to operate the electronics that make music sound good. Then, I worked in a music store in Austin manufacturing, installing, repairing, and operating sound systems and components for recording studios, nightclubs, and touring bands.

I moved back to Charlottesville permanently in 1984 and opened a little demo recording studio. I also attempted to put to practical use the creative writing degree I had picked up along the way.

In 2006, I finally came to my senses and got this job at Crutchfield where they actually pay me to ramble on, rant, and explain the things I love about music, electronics, and getting good sound. More from Buck Pomerantz • • • • •. An exploded view of the parts of a speaker. This particular example is the woofer from a set of Focal component speakers. (click the image to enlarge) In a perfect world: the music sounds great The sine wave below represents a signal that an amplifier sends to a subwoofer as a variation in voltage over time. The vertical axis represents voltage, the horizontal axis represents time.

In AC (alternating current) signals, like music, the voltage swings between positive and negative values. Point A represents the point in time when the amplifier is telling the sub's voice coil and cone to be as far forward, toward the front, as that particular voltage (+V1) tells them to be. Point B is where –V1 voltage positions them toward the rear. Traveling back and forth rapidly, the cone pushes air and makes sound — and it's musical. Overpowering your subwoofer – Slam and Bang First we'll cover what happens when you give your subwoofer too much power.

It's great to turn it up, but that extra volume starts to distort the music. Not only does it sound bad, but it can damage your speakers and subs, especially if you do this all the time. Slam: The incoming signal tells the cone to move too far forward Let's say that points A and B (and +V1 and –V1) are the maximum ratings of our subwoofer.

If we increase the volume of the signal, the higher voltage (+V2) now tries to move the cone even further toward the front (C). The signal is still a clean signal, but now it is trying to move the cone and voice coil much further than they were designed to go, tearing the cone, spider, and surround apart, destroying the subwoofer. Bang: The signal tells the coil to move too far backward On the other side of things, when the signal (-V2) tells the voice coil to move too far toward the rear (D), the voice coil crashes into the back plate of the magnet assembly, cracking the coil and its former (the tube it coils around), and probably jamming it in the voice coil gap.

Underpowering your subwoofer — Pop and Sizzle Underpowering a subwoofer isn’t inherently bad for the sub. Not giving it enough power just means that the music will sound weak and lack detail.

The danger is when that power is coming from an amplifier that's being overworked and sending out a clipped signal. The clipped signal tries to make the sub do things it's not designed to do, which leads to it tearing itself apart or overheating and burning out. First, what’s a clipped signal?

Clipping a signal, or squaring its waveform, occurs when the volume of a source signal exceeds the electronic capability of a circuit. Let's say our amplifier can't play a signal more powerful than what voltage V1 can produce. If we tried to increase the volume at the source, the amplifier wouldn't produce more voltage, it would distort the signal, eventually into the form of a square wave. Pop: A clipped signal tries to move the cone too quickly You will notice that the sides of the clipped signal are vertical. That means that the signal will try to move the sub's cone from all the way forward (point E) to all the way to the rear (F) in zero amount of time, travelling at the speed of infinity. Nothing travels that fast, and the sub either tears itself apart trying, or the flapping cone wobbles just enough to jam the coil in the magnet's voice coil gap, killing the sub. Sizzle: A clipped signal also tells the voice coil to hold still and heat up The other parts of a square wave, the top and bottom, are horizontal lines that represent the times the signal is telling the cone to stay all the way forward or all the way back.

Current flowing through a stationary coil only heats up the coil, which doesn't even benefit from a cooling breeze due to movement. The coil usually burns through one or more of its windings, or heats up enough to deform its shape so that it jams in the magnet's voice coil gap. There's another, more complex reason voice coils burn when subjected to over-driven, clipped signals.

A square wave carries twice the RMS power of a sine wave of the same amplitude (height). So not only is the signal telling the voice coil to pop into a position and sizzle, it's doing it with almost twice the power of the sub's maximum capacity. Usually, it's the glue holding the coil wire to the former that first melts under all the heat, and the coil crashes in its gap. Distortion is the sub killer Low power and low volume will not hurt a sub – but distortion will. A clipped signal is a sub's worst enemy. It isn't loudness that destroys an under-powered sub, it's trying to get bass volume by turning up a distorting signal that does it. Subs are made to withstand a lot more than their specified RMS ratings, so giving them a little more than their highest RMS rating is safe, as long as it's clean and distortion-free.

How to not blow your subwoofer — match the RMS power ratings Ignore all 'peak' and 'maximum' wattage ratings, and use only RMS ratings. They may be harder to find, but RMS ratings are the only power ratings you should use. To safely drive a subwoofer, use an amplifier that can give it no less than 75% and no more than 150% of its highest RMS power rating. It's also crucial you set the amplifier's gain correctly. If you don't know how, you can check out or for some helpful tips. And remember, if you want to run two or more subs, you've got to supply enough power for each and every one of them.

Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield Posted on Thomas, Usually, a blown sub makes no sound, so yours is probably not blown, although something else may be wrong. If your sub has dual voice coils, you can test to see if they both are okay by 'bumping' each coil's connections with a 9-volt battery. If they both make a click sound, then both coils are good. You may just be noticing the changes in the sub's performance due to break-in, the softening of a sub's suspension and tone over time with use. Try re-setting the amplifier gain to see if you can regain any of the power that you sense was lost. Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield Posted on 4/7/2016 Eric, Loudness is a subjective perception and can't exactly be measured - it's different for each individual person, although most agree that a 10 dB increase in SPL sounds like a doubling of the loudness. An amplifier that produces 4.5 dB more power than your 1,000 watts RMS amplifier would be a 2,800 watts RMS amplifier.

If 1,000 watts isn't loud enough for you, maybe 2.8 times as much power will do - only you can tell. And $600 for a 2800 watts RMS amplifier sounds like a bargain to me.

Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield Posted on 4/26/2016 Erik, When an amplifier sends a clipped signal to a sub, it also sends it twice its top RMS power - so your subs may be trying to play with 6000 total watts, 3000 each. The popping sounds you hear are the voice coils bottoming out against the back plates and the cones trying to reproduce a square wave. To me, it sounds like you're over-driving your receiver or amplifier or both. Set the receiver's output and amplifier's gain so no distorted signals will ever play. If that result isn't loud enough for you, you'll have to add another amp or sub to your system. Clairice Dale from Knightdale, NC Posted on 4/27/2016 Buck, first I'd like to say great content. I have a question for you.

My fiance installed a brand new rockford power sub (I forget which model but it doesn't matter to my question) about a month ago and came home looking like a sad panda today because it blew. He was screwing around with his head unit and he says he dropped the hertz to the lowest rockford says that sub can handle.

Is there such a thing as blowing a speaker because you're trying to get it to play too low of a frequency or was it more likely too much power? Timmy from Fairbanks Posted on 5/30/2016 I have two JL 8w7ae's in a sealed custom enclosure powered by a audiocontrol epicenter 1200. I just bought it all new and installed. One night I went to bed and it worked fine, when I wokeup the subs made no noise whatsoever. I checked all connections, fuses, and everything, everything seems fine.

Just no output from the sub (none at all). The cone moves up and down when I press on it. Is it possible I blew my sub the first day and then after it cooling overnight it just completely died? Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield Posted on 6/1/2016 Timmy, From here, I can only suggest re-checking every connection. You didn't mention whether or not your amp is powering up - maybe that's the problem. If you bought your gear at Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system.

Their toll-free number would be on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on for details. Michael Davis from Mobile Posted on 7/26/2016 Hey Buck.

I have an old school Rockford Fosgate Punch Power 250.1 mono amp pushing one RF DVC HX2 12 inch sub wired up for 2 ohms. At 2 ohms the amp pushes 500w x1 RMS and the sub handles 500W RMS. I also have the RF punch display hooked up to the amp. I am noticing that I am getting a clipped signal when the bass hits hard sometimes. It does not sound distorted (at least as far as I can tell) and is only turned about 65% up volume when this happens.

I am wondering if I am getting the clipping because I don't have the gain turned up enough or maybe too much on the amp. It is slightly over half way.

Also I wonder if I have the bass or volume turned up too much maybe? Bass is set to plus 3. Subwoofer level is default so no plus or minus from the head unit. I have the amp hooked to a 1 farad capacitor. As far as I understand I've got everything hooked up right. Any thoughts as to why I'm getting the clipped signal. Discloser: the head unit is a cheap Dual unit as I haven't gotten the one I want yet.

Not sure if that might be the cause. Kevin Jefferies from Virginia Beach Posted on 9/26/2016 My subs make a weird pop, static noise. I have re grounded and made sure it was bare metal, new rca not ran by the power wire, new rca adapters in radio and all connections are tight I re did them all.

New speaker wire inside ported box to the actual sub. No matter what gain I turn it to it makes the noise.

When I shut the car off it makes the noise too then eventually stops. Could it be a bad amp? I bought my radio from you guys too but I'm pretty sure the radio is still good. Corey from Grand rapids Posted on Hi! Great article! I have the kicker cxa600.1 amp, rated at 600rms. I have it powering the 12' kicker 43VCWR122, rated at 500rms in a ported box from kicker.

I'm going on my third sub now (same one) in 5 days time, because it keeps burning up. The first time the gain was just below half, and the second the gain was up about a quarter. I know the amp is a little bit more powerful, but it still falls in your 150% range.

The article was helpful, but I just don't understand why this keeps happening. John Reed from Jacksonville, FL Posted on 3/5/2017 I have a Ford 2010 Sport Trac with factory subwoofer.

Yesterday after about 10 min of driving, it popped, then over a short period began rapidly machine-gun popping. This continued to get louder until it drowned out the radio. Turned bass all the way down, no help. Changed speaker bias to 100% front, no rear, no help. Turned radio off and on. Noise gone but back in less than a minute.

Turned radio off again for 5 min, then back on and it was fine rest of the way home ~10 more minutes. Today testing it, the popping is back. I have disconnected the subwoofer.

Any guidance on whether it's the subwoofer itself or something external to it? I ask this because last year I went through an 8 month exercise with Ford while they replaced: 1) my radio 2) my alternator 3) some electronic control module all without success.

Finally they said 'We ended up having to replace the audio control module and the amplifier for the subwoofer' and it's been fine for 4 months until now. Connor McGowan from Columbia, MO Posted on 4/24/2017 Hey buck, first I would like to say that your information is specific and helpful to everyone's problems on this thread. I was wondering about clipping and it's effects to my subwoofers. Now, I recently played music around 85 percent of max volume on my subwoofers with music that was bass boosted, however, I was using Spotify's equalizer function which can increase the bass on songs (I had the bass boosted option turned up all the way) - not sure if that makes it any better.

I played these bass boosted songs for around 20 minutes or so, would this cause clipping in my subwoofers?? If so what would be a distinctive sound it would create? If not, would this form of bass boost be an acceptable one? In other words would it be okay for me to play these songs bass boosted using Spotify's equalizer function without any concern of clipping? Reticuli Posted on 'Pop: A clipped signal tries to move the cone too quickly You will notice that the sides of the clipped signal are vertical. That means that the signal will try to move the sub's cone from all the way forward (point E) to all the way to the rear (F) in zero amount of time, travelling at the speed of infinity. Nothing travels that fast, and the sub either tears itself apart trying, or the flapping cone wobbles just enough to jam the coil in the magnet's voice coil gap, killing the sub.'

Fairly certain that's pseudoscience. You were on the right path just sticking to the RMS issues of square waves regarding woofers. Over-excursion and excessive RMS leading to thermal damage are the two risks two woofers.