Morning guys, Im the market for another truck. I had a 2001 f150 a couple years back which i got rid of(which i regret) and now im getting the itch to get another truck and this time i want a diesel. I do not plan on towing anything outrageous or putting huge heavy loads of random stuff in the back of my truck. Just looking for a D/D that will be problem free so i need a quick course in diesel trucks for dummies. I am buying used with a budget of 15-20k and dont really want anything older than a 2000. Im bias to fords but i will consider a dodge.

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Im not a chevy fan but if you guys were to give me a good reason to consider them, i am all ears. The Ford diesel 7.3 up to 2003 would be the only Ford I would consider.

Ford left alot of loyal fans with a dirty taste after going to the 6.0. Currently have a 96 1 ton Cummins and love this guy..good mpg, very reliable and simple 12v..but the damn body is falling apart. 2006 was a good year for diesels..Dodge and Chevy. My next truck will be the 2006-07 chevy/GMC. LBZ Duramax 360 horsepower. 650 foot-lbs. Of torque with Allison six-speed automatic Just remember.saying Diesel..is like saying Marine..equals $$$$.

If you are not going to be hauling heavy loads or towing heavy trailers why would you be interested in a diesel? Just curious as to why you would want the high fuel cost associated with the diesel if you truly wouldn't be using it for its purpose. However with that said the 7.3 is an awesome machine. I just feel as for comfort mixed with power you cannot beat the Duramax/Allison combo in the GM trucks. Add the highest resale value for trucks in the pot and I would be looking at a Chevy or GMC. Just my two cents. If you are not going to be hauling heavy loads or towing heavy trailers why would you be interested in a diesel?

Just curious as to why you would want the high fuel cost associated with the diesel if you truly wouldn't be using it for its purpose. However with that said the 7.3 is an awesome machine. I just feel as for comfort mixed with power you cannot beat the Duramax/Allison combo in the GM trucks.

Add the highest resale value for trucks in the pot and I would be looking at a Chevy or GMC. Just my two cents. Honestly, because I just always wanted one.

I mean why do we all own boats? The auto trans. Is the weak link for these 7.3 trucks.

That said I have 130,000 trouble free miles on an '01 and my bro-in-law has over 400,000 on an '02. I'm sure it totally depends on how it's used and cared for.

I use synthetic atf, have an after market cooler and temp gauge. My bro-in-law's is stock. His is a work truck used to pull light trailers constantly. All he's done so far is replace a couple of water pumps. A clean 7.3, properly maintained will go a long way.

I'm far more concerned with mine being stolen or wrecked than worn out. The auto trans. Is the weak link for these 7.3 trucks. That said I have 130,000 trouble free miles on an '01 and my bro-in-law has over 400,000 on an '02. I'm sure it totally depends on how it's used and cared for. I use synthetic atf, have an after market cooler and temp gauge.

My bro-in-law's is stock. His is a work truck used to pull light trailers constantly. All he's done so far is replace a couple of water pumps. A clean 7.3, properly maintained will go a long way.

I'm far more concerned with mine being stolen or wrecked than worn out. X2 tranny is really the only concernable area. I tore one out of my 01' 7.3 and had one put back in with a larger valve body to tighten up the pressure. Much firmer/quicker shifts and made a big improvement to the truck in my opinion, but I'm kind of rough on trucks in the first place.

I agree that every MAN would like to have a diesel. I know I, did. But then I started to think of what I could do with the money that I saved on fuel and oil change costs.

I tow a 7000+ pound travel trailer with a 2002 5.3 liter Z71 Suburban mostly highway and get almost 11mpg. I used my bosses 04 Duramax to tow the trailer once on the same route and got around 14. The Duramax has a 5in exhaust with a cold air intake and Hypertech tuner. I do not think 3 mpg is worth the $.30-$.40 per gallon increase. I did not actually do the math but... Anyway, that's just my opinion. But if you really want it, I would go for the Duramax.

I agree that every MAN would like to have a diesel. I know I, did. But then I started to think of what I could do with the money that I saved on fuel and oil change costs. I tow a 7000+ pound travel trailer with a 2002 5.3 liter Z71 Suburban mostly highway and get almost 11mpg.

I used my bosses 04 Duramax to tow the trailer once on the same route and got around 14. The Duramax has a 5in exhaust with a cold air intake and Hypertech tuner.

I do not think 3 mpg is worth the $.30-$.40 per gallon increase. I did not actually do the math but...

Anyway, that's just my opinion. Dss Player Keygen Music there. But if you really want it, I would go for the Duramax.

Thanks for the info but like I said before fuel burn is not my concern.down time from something breaking is.

You're correct. The 1/2 ton stuff is all 1310 series in and out or the transfer case and axles.

The transmission, and the 3/4 ton rear axle uses 1350 series. I'd like to convert to all 1350 series, but that would require new, custom yokes for the transfer case and it's not in the budget for now. It'll go in the list for future projects. Anyway I did pick up the 1310 to 1350 conversion joint from Spicer. The only bad thing is that it is built like their older type u-joints and not the newer, stronger type.

Posted via Mobile Device. Right now I'm still in the middle of the front axle rebuild. Waiting to get my right hand knuckle back form the machinist and looking for the right (cost effective) crossover steering kit.

I also had to repair my cracked and broken plastic hub lockout selectors. I had a steel tube turned down to loosely fit the id of the selectors, then epoxied it inside, and drilled the pin holes. Seems to work pretty well, and these type of lockouts are kind of rare.

The rear axle is done, except for the damper brackets. I also pulled apart the transfer case to inspect and reseal. It has been rebuilt before, and it does look like the rear bearing on the input shaft exploded once before because the rear bearing cap has a couple of ball shaped indentations in it.

But the bearings and hard parts all look good. So I'm just replacing the oil seals and cutting new gaskets, since the guy at drivetrain.com said he can't get many of these parts anymore. I would like to put new shims in, but he said he can't get those either. Doing the same to the SM420. So far the bearings and hard parts look decent so new seals and gaskets. In the mean time I just thought I'd outline a few part numbers in case someone else rebuilding similar stuff does a search!

(in general Napa carries SKF parts, and Autozone carries Timken) Dana 44 Front Axle (with external hubs lockouts) - pinion seal: SKF #15788 - axle seal: SKF #13165 - hub outer seal (wheel seal): SKF #25077 - hub inner seal: SKF #22311 - the metal and fiber gaskets for the Spicer hub lockouts came from quad4x4.com, and they were a little pricey. Finally got my passenger side knuckle machined, ball joints pressed in, knuckles mounted, high steer arms installed, axles inserted, spindles loosely mounted. I need to strip and paint the caliper brackets so I can bolt them down with the spindles, I had completely forgotten about them! I also need to pick up a length of 1-1/4'x.125w DOM tube to make the drag link and tie rod.

Download Software Penerjemah Bahasa Video2mp3. Hub bearings are ready for grease packing tomorrow, and I reassembled the hub lockouts again after picking up some silicone grease to coat the ring seals on the plastic selectors. This should keep these seals alive for another 40 years. Since I worked into the wee hours of the night it was too dark out for painting my caliper brackets.

So I stayed inside, rearranged my work areas in the garage and started working on the transfer case. Lucky for me this T-221 is pretty immaculate inside now. But I didn't like the rtv type gasket sealer the previous rebuilder used on all the shim stacks and bearing caps. It was leaky and also the rtv that squished out was clogging up half of the oil passages to the bearing caps. I'll be using a spray on light copper gasket coating on the shims, and I'll be drawing out and cutting new paper gaskets/cork gaskets where they are needed.

The shifter rod seals has been staked in (who the hell knows why) which I found unnecessary and quite annoying. Annoying because it deformed the boss for the seals which would damage new ones upon installation. I'll all for staking disposable parts, like nuts and washers and things, but If anything they should have used some that rtv here. Anyway I was able to use a small steel punch to work these out.

A little more light sanding and I think the new seals will go in just fine. Got my space all set up to start cutting new gaskets tomorrow. Hopefully it'll all be back together by the end of the day. Thanks for the kind words, quadzero. I do have some college buddies that have worked for NASA, but I passed on that opportunity.:-P But yeah, the notebook is key. I just write everything in there, anything I read or think of or research, ideas.

Then i can always go back to it. It looks pretty disorganized, but at least all the info is in one spot.

I got the transfer case mostly put back together. I think the copper gasket spray should work out pretty well. I also picked up a couple four foot lengths of DOM tube for the crossover/high steer. The front and rear axles are just about done, but my new lift springs are on back order until late October. I was planning on having this thing rolling around in a week.

I may need to modify my plans. Finally the front is assembled. After all this, I just noticed one of my wheel studs has mashed threads. But now both front and rear axles are ready to go back under the frame.

If only the front springs weren't on back order for a month. Grrr I was cleaning out the garage on Monday night and I found an old pair of front tow hooks. I can't remember what these are off of.

Any help here? The hooks that were on my 73 parts truck were flat. These kind of kink out at a 45 degree angle. I thought the 71-72's had a hook that sort of curled outward and was more pointy. So I'm not sure the origin on these.

Tomorrow night's work will be to button up the transfer case. I need to cut the gasket for the top inspection cover and drive in the new shift rod seals. I finally buttoned up the axles today. Got everything torqued to spec, closed up the diffs, mounted the wheels and rolled them back under the chassis.

It felt good to bolt them up and get to chassis back rolling on the ground! It looks like the front of the chassis sits about 2' higher then the rear right now. I need to mock up the motor, trans, and all the sheet metal onto the Fran to see how the ride highly site before I out new springs in. I think therear will need either a 2' or 4' lift spring. I did also get the transfer case hung on new poly bushings. It's in there nice and snug.

Darkness forced me to stop for the day. I'll snap a couple photos tomorrow. Posted via Mobile Device.