The TL300 delivers extraordinarily long burn times and even heat output. Maintenance is a breeze, with extremely low emissions and a super-sized ash pan. The TL 300 also has an optional cooking grill for indoor grilling all year! This top-loading wood stove provides the perfect mix of modern convenience and stylish. Looking for any info on a Carmor top loading wood stove made in Canada. It has no front. Carmor stoves are good for workshops and maybe a garage as they can be quite dangerous. If anyone has a copy of the owner's manual for this stove, I'd VERY much appreciate an emailed copy.

Years ago I had a Metalbestos chimney with a similar uninsulated cap. We burned quite a lot of mostly pine in the wood stove, and I was concerned about creasote.

So I checked the chimney and found that the underside of the cap had quite a buildup of crud on it. It was hard to get into the chimney, but down inside the pipe, it was perfectly clean--no creasote, not soot, just metal. So I put the cap back on and once in awhile I had a particularly hot fire with the stove draft open. That seemed to clean off the cap pretty well. After a few years of doing this, apparently the supports for the cap either burned away or corroded away, and in a big wind storm, the cap flew off. The stove seemed to work just fine without the cap, so I never replaced it.

I did find the original cap quite a distance from the house a year or two later. Where I live, we get most of our heavy precipitation during the seasons a wood stove would be in use, so it didn't seem to make any difference if the chimney was capped or not. But maybe it would be more important to have a cap where you are. An uninsulated metal cap is going to collect some creasote if wood is burned, at least under some conditions.

When I sold the mobile home the chimney was used in, I kept the stove and chimney out of concern for potential liability. I plan to use the chimney when I build my next pole building. Other than the section that was right next to the stove, all the sections of the Metalbestos chimney seemed perfect and reusable. I have no intentions of trying to use the stupid cap though. If you need to keep the cap, you might also need to pay attention to it and possibly clean it periodically.

Or you might try taking it off and seeing how that works for you. Warning: lots of rain and no fire in the stove might result in a wet floor.

Also birds and other critters might be able to come down the open chimney. We moved to the old farmhouse on our place this past fall.I grewup in that house but hadn't lived there for 30 years.The family consists of myself,my wife,son his girlfriend and thier baby.I am the only one with any woodburning experience. My mother was given a magnetic stovepipe thermometer that sticks to the pipe about 18' above the firebox.It reads temperature of the flue and is marked TOO HOT above 500 degrees,BEST OPERATION 250 to500 degrees and CREOSOTE below 250.The inexperienced woodburners are able to judge thier fire by the guage and adjust the draft setting on the stove accordingly.

I would reccomend one to anybody.It says IMPERIAL KALKEM on it and I think it probably came from TSC.We burned a ridiculous amount of wood this winter and are now digging blocks out of snowbanks to burn.The chimney was cleaned the last day of 2013 and again February 3.There was planty of soot due to the sheer volume of wood used but no creosote. Our chimney has no cap as my Dad took it off years ago.His first chimney brush had hooks on both sides of the brush.He would go up on the roof and lower a rope down the stovepipe so the brush could be pulled up and down the pipe to clean it.I remember that job well because I was always the guy on the bottom.I get discolouration on the pipe like you and even yellow icicles from the edge of the bracket the cap was fastened to. The outside of the chimney is dead cold compared to the inside. It's going to discolor when you don't have a hard fire going simply because the wind will push the smoke around a bit and the outside discolors from that. It's not really indicative of any problem. Those who choose to leave the pipe damper wide open all the time can have. I've been burning wood since '72 or earlier and we've always used the damper to slow the heat escaping up the chimney.

Woodstoves are not maintenance free. You have to clean the chimney if you're burning wood.

Just do it on a month to be safe. I will take a better picture of it tomorrow. When talking about the dampener I mean the one on the wood stove. The stove we are using is a performer from Menards. We get it pretty hot everyday. Survey Remover Free Download Without Survey. The pipe is straight up and we had a furnace guy who does wood burners put it in.

Whats the idea behind a can being in it? What about the creosote logs? I also believe the chimney is high enough above the roof line as said above we had someone put it in who was qualified. We dont have any problems with it back drafting or being hard to start a fire. I have a metalbestos chimney, 8', and it draws great.

I clean it yearly, burn dead dry wood mostly, and most of the time the stove is shut down almost completely air tight. Visual Basic 2010 Express Offline Explorer. I have the cap on it too, and would not ever leave it off due to rain. There is some discoloring but not like yours; maybe just a few inches.

I even have a screen around the cap to keep birds out in the summer. My 6' chimney in my garage does not draw nearly as good, but it does not go above the peak, but the one in the house does and it draws way better as I said.

If you do not have smoke in the house and it draws good, starts a fire easily without back draft into the house, I'd leave it alone. But if it does, add another section on to it. Does your chimney come from the 1st floor, or is it 2 stories?

If it is 2 stories, maybe it just gets too cool at the top. Mine are both 1 story. I burn ash, elm, hackberry, and black locust. The locust is the only one that will burn hot enough that I can damp it back to the half-way point on my wood furnace.

Open up the damper a couple times a week and let it get hot. Once you get it cleaned out. Don't know why, but tossing a couple beer cans on top of the wood seems to really help keep the chimney clear. Don't know what the bottom ring is there, but if the cap rusts out or blows off, get it replaced, without it you can get quite a downdraft. My co-worker's in-laws claim that when they first started burning wood, they made that mistake. With the lights out, you could read by the glow of the cast iron stove and stovepipe. They slept in shifts that night.

Wouldn't dare try to cool it with anything but air when it's that hot. Guess it was about 20 below that night, they had windows open and fans going, and still pushing 100 inside. Thought I had some hedgeapple located, but it turned out to be locust.

And when I moved out here, the guy I was working with told me some trees were hedgeapple, but my current co-workers father-in-law says they are burr oak. We cut up a couple that had to come out, and there was acorn lids on the ground under them. That stuff is hard. When I hit the stump with the axe, it almost rang like hitting steel. The locust laughs at the 8 pound splitting axe. Stretches out a chain pretty well too, even a good Stihl chain. What the guy told me were cottonwood are also elm, too.

We only get about 20 inches of rain a year around here, but if I knock down anything over about 6 inches in diameter, if I don't knock it down into 6 foot or shorter lengths, it will still rot inside within 2 years.