Bnc 500 Pulse Generator Manual
• Jump to: • • • • • • • The AVP-3SA family offers narrow pulses (200 ps to 4 ns) at amplitudes up to 10V and repetition rates up to 1 MHz, with extremely fast rise times (50 ps, 20%-80%). AC-powered benchtop versions and DC-power modules are both available in this family. The most recent information for the AVP-3SA Ultra High Speed Pulse Generator is available here:. The following manuals for the AVP-3SA family (possibly including customized models) are available online: •.
Prices - USA and Canada Standard US/Canada prices are listed below. Base Model P/N Price, Price, Notes Ultra High Speed Pulse Generator AVP-3SA $8498 $5798 Base model. Polarity Options Positive output polarity -P 0 0 A polarity must be specified. Negative output polarity -N 0 0 A polarity must be specified. Dual polarity -PN $2998 * Option. For -1S, -2SA, -3SA units.
Additional Output Two outputs (both negative) $3898 * Option. Two outputs (one +, one -) $3898 * Option. Two outputs (both positive) $3898 * Option. Accessory Kits Recommended accessory kit (attenuators and terminators) $531 $531 Option. Consists of three SMA, 18 GHz, 2 Watt attenuators (10, 20 & 30 dB) and two 50 Ohm, 1 GHz, 1 Watt feed-through terminators (one SMA, one BNC) Recommended accessory kit (coaxial cables and adapters) $348 $348 Option. Suggested for models with an SMA output connector. Consists of one 12-inch SMA-M/SMA-M PE-SR405FL coaxial cable, one 12-inch SMA-M/SMA-M RG-316 coaxial cable, one 36-inch SMA-M/SMA-M RG-316 coaxial cable, one 24-inch SMA-M/BNC-M RG-316 coaxial cable, one 36-inch BNC-M/BNC-M RG58C/U coaxial cable, one SMA-F to BNC-M adapter, one SMA-M to BNC-F adapter, one SMA-F to SMA-F adapter, and one SMA-F to solder cup adapter Front Panel Upgrades Ten turn amplitude control -AT $91 * Option.
View and Download Agilent Technologies E4438C user's & service manual online. E4438C Pulse Generator pdf manual download. Manuals – Specifications – Links – Pictures. The Tektronix PG503 is a high speed pulse generator plug-in for the TM500 system. It produces complementary pulse outputs on SMA Connectors in the front panel.
Replaces the standard one-turn amplitude dial with a ten-turn dial. Miscellaneous Options Electronic amplitude control (analog) -EA $590 $590 Option. Internally generated offset option, electronic control (analog) -EO $971 * Option. The '-EO' option includes the '-OT' function. Electronic PW control (analog) -EW $590 $590 Option. Monitor output -M $498 $498 Option.
The monitor output provides an attenuated replica of the voltage on the main output, for largely non-invasive waveform measurements. Offset -OS $471 $471 Option. Internally generated offset -OT $827 * Option. Rack Mount Kit $298 * Option. For 17-inch-wide models only.
Check datasheet for instrument dimensions. (All -B units are 17 inches). AC Power Cords Power cord for United Kingdom, Hong Kong, Singapore, Malaysia -AC00 $0 * Option. BS 1363, 230V, 50 Hz. Power cord for Australia, New Zealand -AC01 $0 * Option. AS 3112:2000, 230-240V, 50 Hz.
Power cord for Continental Europe, Korea, Indonesia, Russia -AC02 $0 * Option. CEE 7/7 Schuko, 230V, 50 Hz. Power cord for North America, Taiwan -AC03 $0 * Option. NEMA 5-15, 120V, 60 Hz. Power cord for Switzerland -AC06 $0 * Option.
SEV 1011, 230V, 50 Hz. Power cord for South Africa, India -AC17 $0 * Option. SABS 164-1, 220-250V, 50 Hz. Power cord for Japan -AC18 $0 * Option. JIS 8303, 100V, 50-60 Hz. Power cord for Israel -AC19 $0 * Option.
SI 32, 220V, 50 Hz. Power cord for China -AC22 $0 * Option. GB 1002-1, 220V, 50 Hz. Shipping Case ATA shipping case -ATA3 $898 * Option. Ships the instrument in a heavy-duty ATA-style transport case, instead of the normal cardboard box. It can also serve as a storage case. This option is recommended for shipments outside of North America and Europe, and is mandatory when using a freight-forwarder or when shipping by any method other than FedEx/UPS.
It is strongly recommended for all shipments to China. For full-rack-width (17 inch / 430 mm) units, including all -B units. For half-rack-width (8.5 inch / 215 mm) units.
This option increases the shipping weight by 45 lbs / 20 kg (1690) or 24 lbs / 11 kg (1610). Shipping Method Ship to USA or Canada, on Avtech FedEx Priority account $0 $0 Included in base price. Ship globally, on customer FedEx or UPS account $0 $0 Excludes Austria, China, The Czech and Slovak Republics, Germany, India, Japan, Korea, Russia, Switzerland, Taiwan and Turkey. Consult your local representative for pricing.
Ship globally, on Avtech FedEx Priority account Contact Avtech for pricing. Contact Avtech for pricing. Excludes the above countries. Ship globally, using a customer-specified freight forwarder Contact Avtech for pricing. Contact Avtech for pricing. Excludes the above countries.
Not recommended. Due to the increased likelihood of shipping damage, the -ATA3 option (heavy-duty ATA shipping case) is mandatory for -PS, -C, and -B models. * Not available in this format. These prices are in U.S. Dollars, and apply only to orders placed directly with Avtech from the United States and Canada. Reseller prices may be higher. A 5% academic discount is available for North American universities.
Orders are non-cancellable, non-returnable. First-time customers ordering customized models are required to pay 33% in advance (at least 2 weeks prior to shipping, preferably by bank transfer), and the remaining 67% within 30 days of the ship date. Both payments are non-refundable.
Click here for additional information about Prices - International Customers in,,,,,,,,,, and should contact their for pricing. International prices will be somewhat higher than the USA/Canada pricing shown above, depending on local documentation requirements, customs and shipping procedures, and other regulatory issues (for example, the European WEEE directive).
Customers in other countries should contact our directly for pricing. Avtech can ship internationally by FedEx (preferred), UPS, DHL, or Bax Global.
Function generators are useful in a ton of applications from RF to embedded logic. They’re not usually super cheap though.
Good news: we found a kit. The FG085 MiniDDS Function Generator is a ‘some assembly required’ kit that becomes a flexible, functional and easy to use frequency generator.
Just solder the through-hole parts in place, attach the face/base plates and before you know it you’ll be generating sinewaves at frequencies up to 200KHz! But that’s only one of the tricks this thing can do. Three different operating modes allow the FG085 to generate 7 different types of continuous waveform as well as servo test and control signals in micro-second resolution. The LCD screen and menu system make this an easy instrument to operate.
Frequency, amplitude and offsets can all be set with the number pad and incrementally adjusted with the rotary encoder. The incremental step size can even be adjusted to make sweeps over a wide range easier to handle. The FG805 can generate a peak to peak amplitude up to 10V with an offset range from -5 to +5VDC. It can even be used as an adjustable DC voltage source by setting the amplitude to 0.
The schematic and PCB have remained unchanged for the model Sparkfun carries. Only the BOM was changed with U14 being removed a few months ago by JYE Tech. U14 was designed for possible future expansions and was populated at early productions. However, it has never been used even for the early firmwares.
With recent firmware revisions the code space of U6 (ATmega48) has become pretty full. There will be little chance to make any significant change to the firmware in future. So JYE Tech decided not to populate U14 to save some bucks on an unnecessary component. Removing U14 is only an internal production change. It has no impact on functionality and performance of the instrument. Here are the commands to update the firmware under Linux. Note you might have to update the file names, assuming newer firmware.
This was done with the Sparkfun AVR Pocket Programmer, Fedora 19. When connecting the programming ribbon cable the red stripe will on your left when looking at the back of the FG085, for both U5 and U6. U5: sudo avrdude -F -b 9600 -c usbtiny -p m168p -U flash:w:113-08501-130.hex U6: sudo avrdude -F -b 9600 -c usbtiny -p atmega48 -U flash:w:113-08502-050.hex EDIT: Everything flashes OK, boots fine, but no output. I’ll report back when I get it figured out.
Documentation is a complete fail. This kit reminds me of the saying “Buy once, cry once”.
I was evaluating various hobby-level function generators in the $250-$500 price range. I came across this kit and figured “gee, if it’s only $50 bucks, what can go wrong?” My instincts told me, don’t buy it, my greediness won out. I really don’t know if the thing works well or not. I started putting it together following the instructions as best I could. However, there is an “Important Notice” about the switches that is NOT in line with the assembly instructions warning you that the push button switches only go in one way. I totally missed this. Sadly, I soldered in around 25 switches, luck would have all but about 5 were backwards.
Ever tried to unsolder 300 pins? Well, let’s just say I’m not even going to try, I’m just throwing the board away and will resume looking for a decent function generator. I realize the engineer who wrote the assembly instructions is probably not a native speaker. But something important like this needs a MUCH bigger warning. Also, isn’t there some other part that will do the same function as these push buttons that is polarized and not possible to put in backwards? This is an epic design fail; these parts might be okay for a production line, but not for one-off kits. I realize this is my own fault for not reading the assembly instructions as closely as I needed to before soldering down those switches.
However, if you find yourself mesmerized by the low price, be sure to read the assembly instructions over three or four times before soldering anything in place. Also, make sure you have a very thin point soldering iron and high-gauge solder.
The pins are small and very close together. You’re best advised to use a magnifying glass while working on the switches and check for solder bridges (that seem to form quite easily on the switch terminals). I purchased this as a guest so I apparently cant leave a review. The build of the kit is just mediocre. The plastic parts have a wavy cut edge to them like they where cut free hand on the short ends. The buttons have tight clearances and can rub/bind a bit if your soldering was not perfect.
What Are The Main Features Of Serialism Music there. I had to go back and “adjust” 3 of the buttons to align despite them looking straight. The bottom plate is pressing against the top of the larger capacitors. The USB connector had bent pins I had to straighten before soldering. One of the pins of the power button has zero clearance to a capacitor it is next to. Something on mine is whistling a bit.
I think its the LCD. Its not very loud and cant be heard over the fan noise of other test equipment but still a bit annoying. The frequency seems vary accurate but the amplitude leaves something to be desired. Especially at the 5-10V range. I took these measurements using a Rigol DS1102E.
I tried to confirm them with a Tektronix 2246 and Fluke 87V with varying and worse results. Everything agrees the frequency is accurate though. Set Out 1V 1.08Vpp 2V 2Vpp 3V 3Vpp 4V 3.88Vpp 5V 4.8Vpp 6V 5.68Vpp 7V 6.6Vpp 8V 7.52Vpp 9V 8.48V 10V 9.12Vpp I guess you cant really complain for the price. I’m just at a point where I appreciate more attention to detail. Things like the wavy cut edges clearly are just sloppiness. It does generate accurate frequencies within its spec.
I suppose at the end of the day thats what you want your money to go towards in this price range. I finished building this generator a couple of days ago. The build was easy and fun. This product is a good solution for anyone who wants to own a simple signal generator. Word of caution to beginners: the spacing between many of the pins, especially the button switches, is tight.
Use a bright light and a magnifying glass to check for solder bridges. That being said, I would recommend it to someone with limited soldering skills.
Just make sure you have a good iron and thin solder. Follow the building instructions that come with the package. Going to the manufacturer’s web site provides some enlightenment, but their instructions are for another model. I did make one minor alteration when I installed the BNC connector (step 10).
I did not cut the wing off the spring. Instead, I bent it at a right angle and soldered a 22AWG jumper between it and the board. Thanks, Sparkfun, for carrying this product. Can You Use A Vaporizer To Smoke Crack.
I just completed one I got a long time ago and had pushed to the bottom of my to-do list. Many have commented on alignment of the switches not fitting the cover Here is my fix: (1) Use masking tape to tightly cover the switch holes in the cover (do not remove paper protect) (2) Push a screw up from bottom and thread on a standoff with the studs up. (3) Insert all switches with the two “dimples” facing the power connector. (4) Place the taped cover over the standoff studs and make sure all switches are aligned in their hole. (5) Hand tighten the other standoffs to lock the switches in place. (6) Flip over and solder all switches. (7) Remove tape and standoffs and admire perfectly aligned switches!
My kit did not have the stated 15v wart but any 12v regulated supply works! Happy sparking, Larry •. I built the FG085 and it works great, but it really needed some kind of enclosure to protect the insides and to stablize it on the workbench.
I found the H2505-R (Jameco part number 18869, which is 7.9' x 6.3' x 2.5') to be ideal for accomodating the FG085’s dimensions, although ultimately I had to create a new front panel to make it look really good. That allowed me to choose black lettering on a white background, and move the BNC connector slightly outward for better aesthetics. Also, I disassembled the accompanying wallwart power supply (which is a 15v, 1A switching module) and mounted the board into the enclosure with a fuse and a nice AC power switch. Haha, well, proper diagnosis with frequencies still require a lot of research to be calibrated to location, surrounding currents, static, humidity, clothing, planets, time, temperature, men in black outside irradiating you with some radioactive gun to stop finding easy cures for everyone Sadly her technique of finding pathogens inside the body is used by the Mars Rover Curiosity (they even play the “happy birthday” with it, broadcasted live) and no doctor has yet contradicted her explanations of how each virus makes you sick. I honestly believe she knew thousands of times more than any doctor hands you put put your health in. I just noticed most of the frequencies (Rife’s mostly) are above 200Khz:( Thanks for the answer. Just assembled this kit yesterday.
The doc is spartan but clear, and I had no serious trouble with it. You should be able to handle a soldering iron with facility before attempting this kit though.
I count about 200 solder joins you’ll need to make on the board, although they’re almost all through-hole or to pins. Setting up the output jack is marginally tricky, since you need to solder bits of hook-up wire to it in order to reach the main board from the front panel. Be careful to solder the button switches onto the board straight and flat – use blu-tack or bend the pins outward to get them to lock in the holes to ensure this. The front panel has to fit closely over the plastic buttons, and if they’re crooked you’ll have a Terrible time getting it go together at the end. If you catch one that’s crooked, you can re-heat the pins on one side and press it flat though.
The display panel has mounting holes which correspond to holes in the main board, but no display mounting hardware is included in the kit. The display sits on stand-offs which bear on the main board and is stable once you solder its 18 I/O pins in. The kit I ordered July 16 2013 did come with the latest & greatest firmware installed per the JYE website, so I’m happy about that. Alas, the only output connector that comes with it is a BNC connector with a pair of alligator clips attached. If you wish to hook it up directly to your oscilloscope, you may need to get a BNC-to-BNC connector cable somewheres.
I couldn’t make it work with my oscilloscope probe, probably because I am unclear on how that works. I was able to verify that the machine was generating a signal by pressing the output A-clips into the BNC connector on my O-scope, but I’ll need another cable to really delve through the functions. Just purchased this kit for the electronics repair shop that I work. Was very simple to assemble and it worked on the first try. I love the concept of it, and I love the functions available on the unit (the sweep mode is awesome). The waveform output isn’t all that clean however. On an analog scope it doesn’t appear that they filter the wave all that well as I can still see some jagged-ness in the wave.
Selecting voltage outputs in the mV range yields a very noisy looking wave. My PIC-based PWM 1kHz sine wave generator puts out a much cleaner sine wave than this thing does.
I’ve never worked with the AVR micro, but I just might start learning it in hopes of maybe rewriting the firmware for this thing for a cleaner output. Bought this kit in December. Followed the link to “Product Page” and great! Has a sweep function - which is exactly what sold me on this low cost device.
Ugh - No dice. The version Sparkfun sends you is NOT the latest firmware release - which is the version with the sweep function I needed. So off to the races on how to upgrade. Looked across 5-6 different documents to figure out how but got through the upgrade AFTER ordering the programming cable. (bought from Sparkfun - was cheaper than the one from Adafruit. Thought it would work because the schematic for the Pocket AVR Programmer has Limor Fried’s name on it so they must be essentially the same.) So read the JYE Programmer doc to confirm the pins on the FG085 were compatible with the Sparkfun avr programmer cable. Looked on the adafruit website to understand how to use AVR Dude.
Installed the software and programmer driver on my mac. Downloaded the firmware hex files from JYE Tech. Following instructions on the adafruit site for AVR Dude and applying their programmer instructions to the sparkfun programmer and referring to the JYE Tech documentation for their programmer and the FG085 docs to understand and confirm PIN layout compatibility - got 98% the way there when using AVR Dude to program. Its not documented but you have to use the -F option on the programming command line to force the program to load the hex file on the avr chips - this info was gleaned from the messages generated while using AVR Dude. So loaded the new firmware on both chips in the FG085 and Success!!! Firmware upgraded. Testing confirmed all works as expected.
A couple of hours of exploring many documents and web sites got me there. Now - back to reality - was kind of PO’d - Just wish Sparkfun had sent me a kit with the latest firmware. Would have saved me a lot of hassle and $18 for the Pocket AVR Programmer plus shipping (but i guess in the end, I still have the AVR Pocket Programmer which served me well in this process). Anyway, bottom line is that a firmware upgrade for the FG085 is doable but the understanding to make it happen is spread across a lot of different information sources. I did it so I suspect just about anyone can.
Give it a try and most of all, good luck!!!! Got this kit a few days back some tips When soldering together put the rotary encoder in before the caps MAKE SURE the buttons are aligned the right way make sure the buttons are flat superglue them on and/or use the faceplate any tilt the buttons will stick! Stick some aluminum tape on the top/bottom to reduce noise General infos the USB port is fairly useless at baud 115200 when you start it up it shows just general infos in firmware 113-08501-110 you can use Z#=Foo# command to set boot screen with 113-08501-120 you cant do this also it cannot be used for power the output is AC but if you make the offset ½ the set voltage positive than you get DC out interface is a bit confusing but after a bit you can get it down! The BNC connector’s inside female thing is a bit sticky/tight right next to the USB port is a 3 pin header using a single col from lets you attach a servo! I suggest slapping on a right angle BNC or else your cables will get in the way of the screen 22R resistor on output so you will get ~500MA at 10v ~250 at 5v sine wave works great up to 200khz but any other wave starts to break down and get all spazzy after 10khz both the ATMEGA128 and ATMEGA48 have full AVR headers that are populated (if you populate them ) so you can update firmware or make your own there is allota room in the bottom for customization along with a few open i/os from the ISP and the i2c eeprom that can be piggybacked! DS1077 16.2kHz to 133MHz programmable OCC anyone? O3o Someone really should make a custom firmware for this thing it has so much potential!
So I finished putting together my function generator, did the initial power on test successfully, then put the front and back plates on and tried to power it up with my wife watching and puff! Fortunately, not fatal.
I’d managed to drip a glob of soldier on the board somehow when soldiering the bnc connector in place, I guess. My wife is about is non-technical as one could possibly be, but oh how she enjoys watching me cringe as I power something up the first time or two, or run some code the first time. She’s still cackling in our room!
This was a really fun kit to put together. I think it would have been even more fun to tackle the smt stuff as well, but this was still quite challenging for me.
Those switch leads are awfully close together. Anyways, premo kit and somewhat smoke check resistant as well (at least mine was:)). I’d love it if sparkfun came up with a similar cool power supply with LED or LCD display. I bought a nice one, but like this function generator, it’s always somehow more satisfying to put something together myself, even if I’m risking a smoke check or two:) Heh, even that’s fun sometimes.
LOL, she’s still giggling. Fun for the whole family:) Cool yet another tool in my arsenal:) ADDITIONAL: One issue I’ve had is figuring out how to use the servo test/control stuff. I guess I’m lame, but I’m really glad one of the Sparky’s below made mention of how to use the unpopulated 3 hole port (J9?) for this purpose. Otherwise, I’d likely have been doing some silly stuff to get it to work. I wish the manufacturer would have put a bit more time in explaining how to setup and use this. Same thing for how to update the firmware.
From other posts here it looks like it might be a bear for a newb-zilla like me. I’ll probably avoid trying to update until and if I actually need the additional functionality. I just got this kit and assembled it in about two hours. You need to be very careful with installing buttons. They are cheap and if not lined up exactly tend to stick on the face plate.
It’s also very easy to miss a pin on the buttons. Make sure you double check all your solder joints. I found using a flux pen on the button pins helped me get good joints. I was using lead free solder. What most annoyed me was the BNC connector attachment. It appears that, at some point, the manufacturer switched from a BNC connector that stuck out the side, and was easy to solder to the board, to a BNC connector sticking out the front that is connected to the circuit board by only it’s center pin and a lead that you solder to one of the washers used to mount the BNC connector. If I were to get this kit again, I would order the appropriate BNC connector separately and use it instead of the rather fragile scheme you’re told to use in the directions.
After assembly, mine worked as advertised, except the 3 key wasn’t working. It turned out I’d missed soldering a pin. It was easy to fix.
Now everything works fine except for the occasional sticky button. I really wish the manufacturer has gotten better buttons, or perhaps offered a unit with better buttons. Still, for the money, I’m satisfied. I spent more time assembling this kit. You can insert all of the buttons, which are of suitable quality, into place by gently bending the pins to hold them in. Then, temporarily installing the face plate, holds them in place and with the assembly supported face down the switches with the recomended solder can be soldered into place. I think BNC connectors always stick out and the one on my kit is as sturdy as anything I have.
What I am missing is an easy way to do the latest firmware updates and a way to make the USB port functional. Comming soon I hope. I like this kit.
I just put mine together and I’m not happy with this kit. The switches are ‘sticky’ and tend not to spring back up after being pressed. This makes the user interface very frustrating to use. It tends to get hung up and unresponsive, so I have to power it on and off to reset it. I took the face plate off so the buttons could be pulled back up manually after depressing.
Oh and one of the stand-offs was defective, anyway. Just as well as the only way I can use this function generator is without the cover. This was my first dud from Sparkfun. I would recommend passing on this one. Seriously, SparkFun? This looks like something someone would build for a senior design project. Not only does this not use a proper DDS, it doesn’t even use a DAC!
It’s a low-pass filtered PWM output that’s buffered. You could build this with an arduino, an op-amp and a couple passives in about an hour. Why would anyone buy this junk when there are tons of old 2+ MHz function generators that people are practically giving away on eBay? Help cut down on junkyard waste and buy one of those. Since this is a “kit” of sorts (why they make kits with half the components already soldered is beyond me), I assume many people will buy this because they like assembling PCBs (again, beyond me). In that case, why not just get an analog function generator chip, like a $6 DIP-packaged XR2206?
If you just need sine waves, and you want accuracy, I’d recommend SparkFun’s AD9835 breakout board. It’ll synthesize a waveform up to 25 MHz, and takes 5 register writes to get working. We used to carry a function generator based on the XR2206, and would have loved to continue doing so, but that part went EOL (End Of Life = discontinued) some time ago. I know you can still find them in small quantities, but as a business we need reliable supplies for the parts we use in our products. You can certainly find good (and not so good) used test equipment for the same price. But we’ve been looking for a replacement function generator for some time, and we were impressed with the cost and performance of this item.